Healthy cats are happy cats! How do we do breed healthy, happy cats? Human interaction, love, premium food, and top quality health care are provided from the first day of your kittens life.


Healthcare~Your kittens future health will be directly influenced by the quality of his/her care. You should have a licensed veterinarian lined up for your kittens health care needs. Vaccinations and parasite prevention are essential for keeping your kitten healthy. Before leaving our home, your kitten has received regular parasite prevention and age appropriate immunizations to prevent rhinotrachetis, calicivirus, and panleukopenia (health record will be sent home with your kitten). Your kitten will need a a rabies, at 16 weeks of age, and a booster shot at 1 year of age. Due to their wild heritage, Bengala and Savannahs have been known to have adverse reactions to vaccines so it is important not to over vaccinate. Please discuss the FeLV/FIV vaccine with your vet to decide the best protocol for your environment. DO NOT EVER GIVE YOUR KITTEN THE FIP VACCINE.

Diet~Your kitten should have access to dry kitten kibble and fresh water at all times. While at our home, your kitten has been eating dry Kitten food (we will provide specific brand of kitten food prior to delivery). He should be allowed to eat as much as he wants during the first year of life. We also feed a small amount of homemade raw food twice daily ( instructions will be provided) . Please use ONLY the food we recommend for a minimum of 4 weeks to minimize any temporary digestive problems.

Litter~By the time your kitten is ready to go home he/she is using a large, uncovered litter pans with Fresh Step CLAY (non clumping) cat litter. (*See note below about cat litter). Put litter pans in a quiet and well-ventilated area. Scoop the litter 1-2 times daily, dispose of litter appropriately and clean/disinfect your litterpans regularly. Litter boxes should never be too far away for new kitties. If there is something they feel is scary between them and the litter box, or they just woke up or are stressed/ill, they may not get to the one at the back/front of the house. Make the litterbox fairly convenient, at least until they settle in which is anywhere from 3 to 4 weeks. Always keep some type of product made specifically for removing urine. If kitty has an accident and it's not removed properly, it will become a potty location for pets at any time in the future. Also, if you have multiple cats, you need multiple litterboxes. Some cats do not like to share.

*NOTE ABOUT CAT LITTER - If you prefer using a clumping cat litter ( my favorite is Fresh Step Extreme) and/or a covered litter pan, you can begin the transition when kittens are 4-5 months of age. Remember to transition slowly by mixing the current litter with new litter and leaving the lid off the new litter pan for a week or so.

Litterbox Issues - On occasion, your cat may opt not to use their litterbox. There can be several reasons for this - Parasites, urinary tract infection, and dietary indescretions can all cause inappropriate litterbox issues. We recommend taking your cat to the vet in order to rule out any medical issues. Changes in environment can also cause litterbox issues. Cats are very sensitive and something seemingly simple like rearranging the furniture or a family argument can cause upset. Maybe your cat is finicky about cleanliness? Do you have enough litterboxes? Some cats like to pee in one box and poop in another. Maybe your cat doesn't like the location or you moved the litterbox? The problem is usually simple. You just need to figure out what it is and then you can fix it. However,if you find yourself in an irresolvable situation, you need to go back to square one and retarin your cat to use the litterbox. Contact me and I will be happy to provide you with step by step instructins on how to do this.

TRANSITIONING-VERY IMPORTANT.PLEASE READ!!! - Transitioning is an extremely important phase of your kitten's development, and attachment to you. Rushing this phase can create all sorts of problems. Kittens are like babies and need a gentle introduction to their new lives. Overwhelming your new kitten with other pets, too many visitors, or over stimulation can lead to behavior, emotional, or health problems. Stress is one of the top causes of immune system suppression/ weakening, and a kitten's transition into a new home and family is stressful whether they show the signs or not. It is recommended by all professionals to quarrantine any new pet for A MINUMUM of 10 days.

Preparing Kitten's Bedroom - The most important step you can take is to carefully prepare your kitten's bedroom/transition room. This room gives your kitten her a "safety zone" while she is adjusting to her new home. In her bedroom plan to have her climber (if it fits) scratching post or pad, food, water, litter box, and a place to sleep. Many folks take the door off the shipping crate or carrier and leave that in the room with their new kitten. This provides a perfect "hiding" cave for kitty and allows her to come out of her shell at her own pace. Never force a kitten/cat out of hiding unless they are ill. You can, however, gently coax them out by offering smelly food, toys ( f eathers and strings usually work really well), and a soft, inviting tone of voice. BE PATIENT, always. An animal's senses are highly sensitive to anger and frustration and whether it's directed at them or not, they will become anxious and fearful. Changing environments is stressful and needs to be handled with patience and understanding.

DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT LET YOUR NEW KITTEN HAVE RUN OF THE HOUSE!!!!! Changing environments is stressful for all felines. It is a very scary process and needs to be handles with the utmost of care and understanding. It is in animal's nature to hide stress and illness to the best of it's ability. This is because they will be picked on or attacked by more dominant animals and predators if trhey show weakness. It is an innate instinct in all creatures for survival of the fittest.

Rushing this phase or ignoring it is the #1 reason we hear concerns from kitten families such as "she won't let me pick her up" or "We can't pet her" or "he hides all the time". These statements worry us because we know you will now have to go backwards in order to go forward. With kittens and cats, it is much better to set successful habits right from the outset than try to fix things later on.

If you want a sick, emotionally and physically stressed kitten, then ignore the above warning. 70% to 80% of all kittens will get sick within 1-2 weeks of entering a new home where stress and compromise are not taken into consideration.

How long does kitten stay "in there"? - It is recommended by all professionals to quarantine new pets for a minimum of 10 days. Whether there are other pets or not, it is IMPORTANT to start a new feline in a single room. Their senses are much stronger than ours so they must get used to new noises and voices, and odors. We don't notice but there are many energy vibrations in a household. This is why it is so important not to overwhelm your new kitten.

What are the phases you should expect? Depending on your kitten's temperament, and her experiences in shipping or driving home with you, you may find anything from bopping right out of her carrier ready to play, to nervousness and hiding when she arrives. Hiding or being afraid does not mean your kitten doesn't like you! She has just experienced the largest change of her life. She has gone from living with Mom and all her brothers and sisters to being alone or with a litter-mate. Smells and sounds are different, light is different, who is in the home is different. Everything is new to her.

Initially most kittens are cautious. They are often curious and will explore their room after they have had time to listen to their new home and get used to the sounds and smells. During this first day or so, go into your kitten's room every hour or so. Talk quietly and lovingly to your baby. Tell her how glad you are to see her. Key steps to observe for in this phase are to see your kitten eat and drink, and be using the litter box. It is rare a kitten refuses to eat. This is most often the result of trying to change her food while she is learning about her new home. Even if you do not plan to continue the foods we recommend, be sure to feed those foods only during the first four to five weeks. Keeping things as "normal" as possible for your kitten right through her 16 week vaccinations is one of the simplest ways to make sure she learns quickly she is home! Plan on leaving only one small ball or mouse in with your kitten at this time.

Introduce them to new family members/friends /children no more than two at a time and remember it's important not to overwhelm them. Over-handling of a new kitten/cat is not recommended. Use your parental instincts to decide when the new baby has been handed back and forth enough. Offer children to sit with them only, until the kitten/cat adjusts to all the new family members and environment. This will prevent events of sudden panic, which can lead to attempting to leap or claw their way to safety. This will inevitably happen when carrying a brand new feline around while walking in a strange environment. A small kitten can be injured terribly when leaping half-hazardly from someone's arms or shoulder, and the person involved will probably not be left unscathed. If they are really frightened and held against their will, they may resort to biting if they feel their life is in danger. None of these things feel good to the person who held the kitten/cat, or the animal itself. Remember, to them it's an innate fight or flight response. They don't want to hurt anyone but they cannot control their survival instincts.

The next phase will bring your kitten "out of hiding." This can take anywhere from one day to over a week. Do not push this stage! Rushing it frightens your kitten and delays trust building. The average kitten will come to this point in three to four days. What you will notice: Your kitten is out and about in the room when you enter. She does not "dash" for cover when she realizes you are in the room. She is interested in food you have brought in or is looking to you for a toy to play with. At this stage you will want to be bringing in a toy or two you think she is most likely to want to play with. We suggest the "wand" that is shipped with her. It may take a visit or two to "her" room before she begins to follow it, attempting to bite at it or pat it with her paws. Be sure to remove the toy(s) when you leave the room. This seems mean, doesn't it?! However, you want your baby kitten to associate you with "good things" and toys are "good things.

The final phase occurs somewhere between four days and several weeks. This is when you will see your kitten DASH by you to get out the door. She has had enough of confinement and is ready to meet the rest of the household. Even though she is now interested in the house, be sure to put her in her room at night or when you go out. This provides security and safety for her. We encourage this practice to remain in place. For all families, it provides a safe place for her during parties, times when repairfolk are in the house, or other occasions when the hustle bustle might allow a curious cat to escape outside and become lost or injured. If your kitten associates her room with safety, you will not have to contend with a frustrated cat meowing loudly in her room during your dinner parties, or while your allergic aunt is visiting. 

Meeting The Household - The final stage in your kitten's adjustment is just as important as the earlier ones and should be handled just as carefully. This is the time where they are meeting any cat and dog friends you have in your house, and learning to leave the birds, rabbits, guinea pigs, and fish alone. We will provide you with a list of steps to take to prepare your home for your new kitten.

INTRODUCING YOUR NEW CAT TO YOUR RESIDENT CAT - Introductions can be done with a minimum of stress. They need to be done slowly, it can take a month or longer to properly introduce cats to each other. Cats are territorial. It’s too much to ask any cat to accept a stranger into her house without proper introductions. People are the same way. We don’t react well when an uninvited stranger walks into our home. Neither do cats.  The newcomer needs her own room where she can be safe, away from any other animals. This will be her safe room, her sanctuary. It needs to be comfortable for her, with food, water, bed, cat boxes, a window to look out of and toys.  Judge by the cat’s responses in each phase to determine the length of each of the phases detailed below. There is no typical time frame. Every cat is different. If there is howling or hissing or any other signs of aggression, prolong the phases. Cats should remain separated from each other throughout the introduction process. One helpful activity is use two clean socks or rags and gently pet the new cat’s cheek with one sock, transferring pheromones onto the sock. Repeat, using the second sock on the resident cat’s cheek. Place each sock where the other cat hangs out, but not under their food, near litter boxes or in their sleeping area. Socks must always be clean. Also, 2-3 times a day, feed the cats delicious treats or regular meals simultaneously, separated by the closed door. Try feeding close to the closed door. If, at first they either won’t eat or display aggression towards each other, back the food away from the closed door to a comfortable eating distance. When comfortable with the distance, move the feeding stations closer to the door until they are eating next to each other (separated by the closed door) without displaying aggression.

Be sure to have your kitten in his/her safe room when you are not there to supervise. This is especially important at night and while away from home when you can't be there to oversee.

There can be set backs during transition. Do not be discouraged. Simply back up a phase or two and wait there until your kitten has readjusted and then again move forward. Please be sure to be in contact with us if you are concerned about your kitten's adjustment, or any of the phases. There are no dumb questions when it comes to caring for your pet. We are here to walk you through this and be sure that you and your new kitten have a happy, healthy life together!!

We hope your cat will be with you for life but if for any reason ( there is no judgement) you can't keep your kitten in the future and you have no one you can trust to take care of your pet, please contact me. I don't give refunds or buy them back, however, I will do whatever I can to help find a new home providing they are healthy and emotionally capable of readjusting to a new home.

We thank you for purchasing your kitten from me and for taking the time to read this. I hope you will print it out and keep it in a safe place with your other kitty records for future reference. I wish you and your new kitten all the best and hope your kitten will bring you a lifetime of joy and companionship, and lots and lots of smiles. Please think of me in the future for additional kittens and I hope you will feel confident in referring your friends to me as well.

Warm Regards, Teresa

Please Note: It is the responsibility of any interested party to determine the laws and regulations in your city, county and state regarding the private ownership of Bengals and Savannahs. Please check with your Fish & Wildlife, Natural resources or Animal control departments to find your local regulations.